What is The Rif?

The Rif Mountains are a region in northern Morocco. Here you’ll find mountains, the sea and places that are far from touristy.

The Rif Mountains are a geographical region. It stretches from Tangier in the west almost to Algeria in the east. To the north, the region is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea.

In the western Rif Mountains, Darija – that is, Moroccan Arabic – is the main language spoken. There are cities such as Tangier, Tetouan and Chefchaouen.

In the eastern Rif Mountains, Rifiya – that is, the language of the indigenous people – is the main language spoken. There are the larger cities of Nador and Al Hoceima, and the smaller ones of Taounate and Aknoul.

In Algeria, Tunisia and Libya, too, there are indigenous peoples whose languages bear similarities to Rifiya. Originally, it was the same region, with the same language, inhabited by the same people: the Amazigh (formerly known as Berbers).

Why visit the Rif Mountains?

Many people travelling to Morocco choose Marrakech or Agadir. These cities are nice, but full of tourists. It only feels partly like I’m in Morocco.

When I’m in the Rif Mountains, I feel completely in Morocco.

Nador

The first time I was Nador, I was not impressed. The city is full of traffic and has few grand buildings. People behaved as if they had never seen a European before. Life in Nador is very different. And what is life for, if not to experience new things?

The most beautiful thing in Nador is the seafront promenade, known as el-corniche. My most memorable experience of nature in Nador was when I went for a walk in the mountains with a friend who knew the area. The most relaxing thing is sitting at a café and hearing people speaking Rifiya around me. I hardly ever hear European languages spoken.

The sea around Nador is bordered by a long, narrow strip of land. It’s more like a lake than a sea. The water is often calm and considerably warmer than the rest of the Mediterranean.

There is a sandy beach near the centre. There, you mainly see children swimming. Many say that the water there is not healthy. Most people who want to swim head to Beni Ensar, a small town east of Nador.

Swimming in Beni Ensar

The bus from Nador to Beni Ensar costs five dirhams. Some buses go directly to the beach, whilst others stop at the bus stop, which is about a ten-minute walk from the beach. A taxi costs ten dirhams during the day and considerably more in the evening once the buses have stopped running.

The beach at Beni Ensar is packed with people in the summer. Almost everyone is Moroccan. You can hire tables and chairs, and buy things like ice cream, grilled sweetcorn or candyfloss. I’ve been advised to walk a bit along the beach before going for a swim; the further away from the harbour, the cleaner the water. There is also a café and restaurant.

It is most beautiful at sunset, when the sea shimmers in warm colours and the sky glows beyond the mountains. After sunset, swimming is prohibited. The reason for the evening swimming ban is the proximity to Melilla, the Spanish exclave.

The border with Spain is constantly monitored. Guards patrol on foot and on horseback after sunset to ensure no one is in the water. Many young men risk their lives by swimming to Melilla. They dream of a future free from poverty.

Al Hoceima

Al Hoceima is a town with green cliffs overlooking the sea and white buildings. In Al Hoceima there are plenty of flowers, both planted and wild.

I don’t like swimming when the waves are big. That’s why I prefer Quemado beach. It’s really close to the centre of Al Hoceima.

Nador vs Al Hoceima

Al Hoceima is cleaner and more charming than Nador. Prices are higher in Al Hoceima. In Al Hoceima I’m left in peace; in Nador, people are more likely to strike up a conversation with me.

In both Nador and Al Hoceima, I have the opportunity to practise the local language. Many people are delighted when they realise I speak Standard Arabic, or when I say a few sentences in Rifiya. But people are much more talkative in Nador, and when I walk around Nador, far more people speak to me. Some of them are young women who want to practise French or English, many of them are men who want to get married to come to Europe.